New series “BREWER’S INTERVIEW” has just started! This is the project to know more about brewer’s way of thinking and the behind-the-scenes of sake. SAKEMARU interviews brewers from various perspectives. The first brewer is Mr. Yasushi Okazaki from Okazaki shuzo, which offers SAKEMARU’s October special sake. The topics for this month is “HIYAOROASHI, Autumn limited sake”.
Here's an article about Hiyaoroshi if you're not familiar with it.Interview with Mr. Yasushi Okazaki, Okazaki shuzo
Q. How is Hiyaoroshi in this year?
In the past year, we missed the best timing for pasteurization and it was regrettable. This year, we used that experience to pasteurize at the optimal time. We still mature our sake in the sake barrel under room temperature as per tradition. Even in the summer, our brewery maintains a dark and cool atmosphere, which is perfect for maturing sake for a short period. The taste of our sake is richer and mellower compared to last year's batch.
Q. What does Hiyaoroshi mean to Okazaki shuzo?
Our sake brewing is designed to reach the summit of deliciousness in Autumn, which is why it's the best time to enjoy our sake. I'm a big fan of Hiyaoroshi and hope people enjoy it in various ways from September to December – chilled, warm, and hot. However, many breweries now release freshly-brewed sake nouveau in November, which makes the window for enjoying Hiyaoroshi shorter every year. It's a bit sad.
Q. When you're maturing your sake, is there something special you do for brewing?
Everything starts from the very beginning. For example, we wash and soak rice by hand because the small difference in water absorption between each grain of rice can have a significant impact on the next step, which is Koji production. Koji production is the most important step in producing high-quality Hiyaoroshi. Since we mature our sake under room temperature, the sake itself has to be strong enough. Without high-quality koji, we could never make strong sake. We figured out the best timing to add koji mold and the best environment in the koji room by trial and error. Using this practice, we carefully make koji little by little to maximize quality.
In addition to koji, we are also particular about the rice selection. It is said that the “king of rice,” Yamadanisiki, is the most stable rice for producing high-quality sake. However, we've been using 100% local rice, Seitonoshizuku, to contribute to the growth of local agriculture. It was challenging, because Seitonosizuku is good rice to make sake full-bodied but difficult to make its finish clear. By using Yamadasnishiki rice 50%, we have solved this problem. There is a long history to this recipe.
Q. As same as brewing, we think the maturing should be inevitable to mostly rely on the nature process. Do you have something unforgettable experience?
When I was a beginner, I once failed to make Hiyaoroshi. Because I neglected to control the level of drying the koji, the taste of sake became plain like water. Despite maturing for more than half a year, the taste was still bland. I don't want to recall the moment I first tasted that sake.
Q. Hiyaoroshi is Autumn limited sake. Please tell us your recommendation on how to enjoy Hiyaoroshi.
Depending on the climate, how you drink Hiyaoroshi may vary. Personally, I love consuming it chilled without any rush. Although sake nouveau will be released in December, I recommend sticking with Hiyaoroshi and drinking it hot to enjoy its taste to the fullest.